Cumming Lawn Care

Beauty is a natural truth. Beauty attracts everyone. If you are beautiful then everyone will like you. But your beauty is not enough. Your home should be beautiful and maintained as well. Then people will be impressed by you and by your qualities. And you will be an example for others. With the maintenance of the home, you should have to maintain your lawn as well. A lot of services are needed for the maintenance of your lawn. In this fast age of life, everyone has not enough time that they can maintain their lawn. Because of this, the natural beauty of your lawn is ruined. But you don’t have to be worry about the services of your lawn because Casey Scapes is providing you all the lawn care services like mowing, shrub trimming, weed control in island areas, weed trimming, edging, fall clean up, annual pruning, landscaping, drainage systems, hardscapes, mulching, lightning, overseeing, pine straw, pressure washing, aeration, sodding, spraying, sprinkler systems, lawn care services and blowing of driveway. Trimming is very important. There are a lot of methods and techniques of trimming. Our company uses best techniques and tools for trimming. Our trimming services will make the growth of your plants and trees sharp. They cut the trees and plants up to suitable length. Edging is very important to secure the flower beds. Our company is providing you the different types of edging in different colors.

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Our capable professionals will also provide you the guideline about the material for the edging. They will tell you which material is best and suitable for the edging of your lawn. Our brand provides you the facility of edging of all concrete areas, and edging of driveway. We will provide you such a type of material for the edging of your driveway which is strong and sturdy. And your driveway will be safe and sound. If you feel that the grass of your lawn has become haphazard and it is not looking good. Then your lawn needs best mowing by best professionals and best equipment’s. And all these best qualities you can found on our platform. And specially, during growing season, your lawn needs weekly mowing. Our professionals will visit your lawn weekly in growing season and at least two visits per month in winter season. So that your lawn become according to your desire and wish at a very reasonable price.

Feel Fresh, Be Fresh!

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Annual Ryegrass Plant Information

The grass shown in the picture above is annual ryegrass. There’s more than one kind of rye; in fact, three different types of grasses contain “rye” in their names. It’s easy to be fooled, and part of the purpose of this article is to distinguish between the three types. Along the way I’ll discuss the various purposes to which these plants are put.

Understanding the Differences Between the Three Kinds of Rye

When the use of common names engenders confusion, it’s helpful to turn to the scientific names of the plants for some clarity.

Here are the botanical monikers for the three grasses in question (along with their most commonly-used common names) suggested by your local lawn care experts:

  1. Lolium multiflorum (annual ryegrass)
  2. Lolium perenne (perennial ryegrass)
  3. Secale cereale (winter rye)

Note, however, that, when speaking informally, people sometimes refer to the first two, as well, as ” winter rye.” That’s all the more reason to insist on the use of the botanical name when a positive ID is called for.

In addition to Lolium multiflorum, also in the annual camp is Secale cereale. So that’s one important difference to observe between the three: namely, that two have an annual life cycle, while one is a perennial.

Another noteworthy difference is that winter rye (Secale cereale), unlike the other two, is a grain. Thus another common name for it: “cereal rye.” So think of this one in the way that you would think of wheat or a similar grain, not a lawn grass. Another difference — which should now come as no surprise to you — is that winter rye is a more robust plant than either annual ryegrass or perennial ryegrass.

Despite these differences, they all share one thing (besides having similar names): they are cool-season grasses.

Now that we’ve explored some of the major differences between these three grasses, let’s examine some of their uses.

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Uses for Annual Ryegrass

The best-known use for annual ryegrass is in overseeding lawns, specifically, in overseeding lawns that are composed of warm-season grasses in the South.

When the warm-season grass goes dormant in these lawns during the months of cooler temperatures, overseeding with a cool-season counterpart (annual ryegrass) provides a way to enjoy a green expanse for a longer duration. By the time this annual grass dies out, the weather will have become suitable again for the warm-season grass to take over.

Annual ryegrass is also used in emergencies to cover bare ground. An example would be to fight erosion in a pinch. The seed is cheap, so people sometimes turn to this grass when they can’t afford a better option. As CASEY SCAPES‘s points out, “Annual Ryegrass is often used as a nurse crop or as a temporary turf to quickly fill in bare areas due to its rapid germination.”

I can testify to that rapid germination. As an experiment, I sowed seeds of creeping red fescue, Kentucky bluegrass and annual ryegrass in small containers on August 21. By August 25, the annual ryegrass had already germinated. The next one (the fescue) did not germinate until August 28; the Kentucky bluegrass germinated shortly thereafter. Even after germination, the three patches were markedly different, with the annual ryegrass being by far the thickest and tallest of the three.

This vigor is a double-edged sword, unhappily.

Its tolerance of a variety of conditions and its ability to reseed quickly mean that annual ryegrass is potentially an invasive plant. If you decide to use it as a temporary measure to solve a landscaping problem and don’t want it to spread, try to keep it from going to seed by mowing faithfully until it runs through its natural life cycle and dies out.

Uses for Perennial Ryegrass

Perennial ryegrass is used extensively in lawns. It is commonly found as one of the constituents of a grass seed mix. Such mixes are composed on the principle that a weak point of one type of grass (lack of shade tolerance, for example) in the mix can be offset by a strong point of another. In the case of perennial ryegrass, a strong point is that it holds up well to foot traffic.

Like annual ryegrass, another strength of perennial ryegrass is that its seed germinates rapidly.

As Kelly Burke observes, “Perennial ryegrass is considered a nurse grass because it is often included in grass seed blends mainly for its ability to germinate quickly and provide shade and protection to the other grass species like Kentucky bluegrass which can take up to three weeks to get started.” As a weak point, Kelly cites its clumping growth habit, a result of which is that “it can sometimes appear patchy”. Perennial ryegrass is different in this respect from many lawn grasses, which possess the ability to spread via stolons or rhizomes, allowing them to fill in better.

Uses for Winter Rye

Winter rye is perhaps the best known of these three grasses to the general public. That’s because it is enjoyed as an edible not only by livestock, but also by people. Its grain is used for the flour that gives us rye bread (deli, anyone?). Others will be more familiar with the use of the grain in producing whiskey.

Here I’ll concern myself with the use of winter rye as a “cover crop.” If you’re not familiar with that term, please read my introduction to the benefits of cover crops.

One of those benefits is weed control, which winter rye excels at due to that horticultural super power known as “allelopathy,” i.e., the ability to inhibit the germination of the seeds of competing plants. The potential drawback, as mentioned for lawn maintainence, is that “allelopathic compounds may suppress germination of small-seeded vegetable crops as well if they are planted shortly after the incorporation of cereal rye residue.”

Nonetheless, winter rye, managed properly, is very effective as a cover crop, boasting good cold-hardiness, a deep root system (to prevent erosion and loosen the soil), and good drought tolerance compared to other cereals.

Lawn Care Cumming used to sow winter rye seed in fall. The exact time for sowing will depend on your region (ask your local extension), but the idea is to get your cover crop established before winter settles in. All you have to do thereafter for a while is wait for winter to end and let the cover crop do its job of “covering for you” until spring returns.

In spring, I would mow the winter rye, then use a garden tiller to turn it under. Some gardeners, rather than rototilling every last bit of this biomass underground, save some to use on top of the ground as a mulch, in which case you’re essentially growing your own mulch. How cool is that?

Either way, the real question becomes, When do I mow my winter rye? If you don’t want your cover crop to outstay its welcome, the timing for mowing is critical, because you face the challenge of something termed “grow-back.”

Why does winter rye sometimes grow back if it’s an annual? Well, it’s important to review just what the annual life cycle consists of. Essentially, a cold-hardy annual such as winter rye will keep growing until it achieves its goal in life, which is to bear flowers so that it can produce seeds. So if you mow too soon, it may make a comeback and put on more growth in an attempt once again to bloom — which you don’t want. On the other hand, if you wait too long to mow, the plants will, indeed, go to seed and live on through a second generation. You don’t want that, either.

Do You Need to Lime the Lawn

Like most things in nature, the soil supporting your lawn (technically called turfgrass) must be in balance. In this case, the balance is a measure of pH or acidity. If your soil is too low on the pH scale, adding lime can help restore the balance and promote a healthier lawn. A quick understanding of the basics of pH, how to test your soil and when and how to apply lime are all you need to get started.

Why Use Lime?

Adding lime is the most common method of changing pH of the soil. Soil pH is a measure of a soil alkalinity or acidity. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Anything below 7.0 is acidic, and anything above is alkaline. Most turf grasses grow best with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. If a soil tests lower than 5.5, it likely will benefit from added lime.

Soils can be naturally acidic but can also be acidified over time by natural leaching, the use of some nitrogen fertilizers, excessive rainfall or irrigation, and acidic water sources. Low pH affects microbial activity in soil, making nutrients less available to grass and other plants. As a result, turf declines. Common symptoms of low pH include loss of color, reduced vigor and diminished ability to recover from heat and drought stress.

Types of Lime

The lime you apply to a lawn is limestone or chalk. The main component is calcium carbonate. There are several types of lime, and a good soil test should tell you which type of lime you need.

Lime with a high calcium content is referred to as calcitic lime and has the benefit of adding calcium to the soil. Some limestone contains a significant amount of magnesium and is referred to as dolomitic lime. Dolomitic lime adds magnesium to the soil and could be used if soil tests indicate a magnesium deficiency.

Most types of lime can be applied with a standard lawn spreader.

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How to Test Your Soil

You can buy DIY soil test kits at Lawn Care Dahlonega GA. A good kit costs about $15 to $20 and tests for pH as well as nutrients, such as nitrogen and phosphorus. The accuracy of the results is difficult to predict, and the information may not tell you how much lime your lawn needs. For the same amount of money (and a little more time, perhaps 2 to 3 weeks), you can have your soil tested at a local extension service. Most university extensions test soil for about $10 to $20 and usually offer a much more detailed analysis of your soil’s composition and pH level.

Follow the extension’s instructions for gathering the soil sample. It’s usually best to gather multiple samples from each large lawn area and mix the samples for each area together before bagging it for testing. Be sure to let the tester know that you want to learn about liming your lawn Care. They will likely perform an SMP buffer test on your sample(s) to indicate how much lime to add.

When to Apply Lime

Lime can be applied to a lawn any time of year that soil isn’t frozen, but it is typically done during spring or fall. It’s best to apply lime after aerating the Lawn Care Cumming GA.

This aids absorption and allows some of the lime to reach deeper into the soil.

 

Level out an Uneven Lawn With Topdressing

Areas of a lawn can become uneven over time, due to “settling” and other factors. In the least extreme cases, you will want to solve the problem by “topdressing,” which allows you to level out your lawn. Is this problem new to you? If you have never experienced it, you may need a brief introduction to it — and its solution — in order to understand what it is all about. The following exchange between a reader of my Landscaping website and a lawn care expert at CASEY SCAPES provides a case study that will help bring you up to speed.

The Problem: Low Spots Develop in a Lawn, Making the Surface Uneven

Reader, Springtime writes, “I have a lawn that was put on over a ledge where the house was build in 2006. Now the lawn is very uneven with dips in the surface that can twist your ankle while walking. The grass is in bad shape too and looks dead in places. One side of the lawn is sloping. What should I do?”

The Lawn Mowing Cumming has given answer to this question bellow:

The Solution: How Bad Are Those Low Spots?

Most of us enjoy our turf grass lawns as a great foundation for outdoor activity. Maintaining our lawns properly is very important, in part, to ensure safe and enjoyable outdoor activity. A lawn needs to be smooth to avoid injuries that might be caused from stepping on an uneven surface. Your grass is the “floor” of an outdoor living space, and floors need to provide stability.

A level and even lawn is also easier to maintain. Who wants to mow a lawn with low spots in it, right?

Not only is it uncomfortable (as when you drive your car over potholes), but it can also cause you to scalp the grass (because, as the mower drops down when the tires pass over low spots, the level of the mower blade also drops, plunging into the higher spots and cutting the grass there much too low).

So what is the solution to the problem of low spots? It really depends on the severity: are we talking about some minor depressions, extreme cratering, or something in between? The solution differs accordingly, which is why the response must be broken up into three parts, which we will term Methods 1, 2, and 3: Landscape Cumming.

Method 1 — Leveling Out a Mildly Uneven Lawn by Topdressing

Topdressing the low spots works well for leveling mildly uneven areas; it is the least invasive approach. Here is what to do:

  1. According to the Lawn Care Cumming, in a wheelbarrow or similar container, mix up a batch of topsoil, sand, and compost — basically, a soil medium that can support turfgrass growth.
  2. Apply 1/2 inch of this soil mixture on top of the low areas. Do not make it deeper than that, because this approach must be gradual, so that you do not smother the grass.
  3. Rake the topdressing to spread it out evenly.
  4. With a push-broom, work the soil mixture in between the blades of grass as thoroughly as possible.
  5. Monitor the progress in the area. Eventually, you should see just grass, no dirt (assuming there were no bare spots before you began the process of topdressing). If it is still uneven, keep repeating these steps until it is level. If the spot is level now, then you are done.

But if you had bare spots in the area before you started topdressing it, you will have to overseed for the Lawn Service Cumming.

Method 2 — Leveling Out a Moderately Uneven Lawn: “Sweeping the Dirt Under the Carpet”

The topdressing process described above takes time to work. What if you have a few really low spots in your lawn? Obviously, topdressing would not be very effective, because (since you have to proceed 1/2 inch at a time) you would be waiting forever. Yet, since, it is only a few low spots that we are talking about, there would be no need to take the kinds of drastic measures described in Method 3. Fortunately, there is an lawn care intermediate method. I call it “sweeping the dirt under the carpet,” because you are essentially picking up sod (the carpet) and putting dirt under it. This method works as follows:

  1. Remove the sod over the low spot (if the area is bigger than 1 foot square, cut out multiple chunks, since a piece of sod greater than 1 foot square is hard to move around without breaking) and set it aside.
  2. Shovel enough topsoil into the hole that, once you replace the sod, the area will be even.
  3. As you shovel the soil into the hole, add water. This will remove air pockets. The last thing you want is for the sod to settle after you have finished — which would defeat the whole purpose of the project.
  4. Replace the sod and water the grass.

Method 3 — How to Level Out a Lawn That Looks Like a Moonscape

Finally, we come to the most extreme end of the spectrum. Is your lawn so littered with craters that it looks like the surface of the moon? If the uneven areas are substantial enough and numerous enough that neither topdressing nor the sweep-the-dirt-under-the-carpet method will solve the problem, then you may need to do a more major renovation by regrading the area and establishing a new stand of turfgrass. To accomplish this, you need to take the same steps that you would take to establish a new lawn, except that you are applying these steps to a smaller area.

How to Store Your Lawn Mower for the Cold Season

Gas-powered lawn mowers and trimmers take their share of abuse during the warm months, so some care at the end of the season—or at the start of spring—is vital to keeping their parts in good working condition. Replacing the oil, spark plugs, and air filters on mowers and applying a bit of elbow grease to grimy recesses, preferably before storing them for the winter, will ensure that they rev up with a pull of the cord next year.

1- Empty the gas tank

Unused gas left in a mower over the winter can get stale, gumming up the carburetor and inviting rust. First, add fuel stabilizer to the tank, then run the mower to distribute it through the system. Turn the mower off and allow the engine to cool, then siphon excess gas into a clean can. (You can put this gas in your car, provided it hasn’t been mixed with oil.) Restart the mower and run it until it stops; repeat until the engine no longer starts and the fuel lines are empty.

2- Remove the spark plug

Before continuing with the remaining Cumming Lawn Care maintenance steps, it’s very important that you disconnect the spark plug to prevent the mower from kick-starting accidentally, which could lead to serious injury.

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3- Remove the blade

To make it easier to change the oil and clean the underside of the mower, first detach the blade by unscrewing the bolts that hold it in place. Be sure to wear thick gloves when handling the blade. While the blade is off, take advantage of the opportunity to sharpen it

4- Drain the oil

According to the Cumming Lawn Care If the mower has a 4-cycle engine, you’ll need to change the oil. (Some mowers and most trimmers have 2-cycle engines, in which the oil is mixed with the gas.) Have a pan ready, and place a tarp under the mower to catch any oil that might spatter. Set the mower on its side with the air filter and carburetor facing up, so oil and residual gas don’t spill into them. Remove the oil reservoir plug and slowly tilt the mower until the oil begins to drain into the pan. Replace the plug when all the oil has drained.

5- Clean the undercarriage

Use a putty knife and wire brush to scrape off the grass and mud caked on the mower deck Landscaping Alpharetta. This prevents rust, clears the passageway to the discharge chute, and allows the aerodynamics of the deck to work as designed. With the deck cleaned, reattach the sharpened blade. Once you’ve finished and can turn the mower upright, fill the oil tank with fresh SAE 30 or 30-weight oil, and recycle the used oil at a service station. Don’t use a thicker oil, such as 10W-40.

Change the air filter

A dirty air filter keeps the engine from burning gas efficiently by restricting the air needed for combustion. If your mower has a paper filter, replace it with a new one, paper edges facing out. If it’s an oil-soaked sponge filter, remove it, wash it out with soap and water, allow it to dry completely, and then add a bit of clean oil to it before putting it back. Clear the cooling fins of dirt and debris using a screwdriver or popsicle stick.

Replace the spark plug

Remove and replace the spark plug, using a socket wrench with a spark-plug socket, which has a neoprene lining to protect the plug’s porcelain casing. Even if the old spark plug is in good shape, for a couple of dollars a new one will perform better and ensure a smooth start come spring.

Level out an Uneven Lawn With Topdressing

Areas of a lawn can become uneven over time, due to “settling” and other factors. In the least extreme cases, you will want to solve the problem by “topdressing,” which allows you to level out your lawn. Is this problem new to you? If you have never experienced it, you may need a brief introduction to it — and its solution — in order to understand what it is all about. The following exchange between a reader of my Landscaping website and a lawn care expert at CASEY SCAPES provides a case study that will help bring you up to speed.

The Problem: Low Spots Develop in a Lawn, Making the Surface Uneven

Reader, Springtime writes, “I have a lawn that was put on over a ledge where the house was build in 2006. Now the lawn is very uneven with dips in the surface that can twist your ankle while walking. The grass is in bad shape too and looks dead in places. One side of the lawn is sloping. What should I do?”

The answer to this question follows:

The Solution: How Bad Are Those Low Spots?

Most of us enjoy our turf grass lawns as a great foundation for outdoor activity. Maintaining our lawns properly is very important, in part, to ensure safe and enjoyable outdoor activity. A lawn needs to be smooth to avoid injuries that might be caused from stepping on an uneven surface. Your grass is the “floor” of an outdoor living space, and floors need to provide stability.

A level and even lawn is also easier to maintain. Who wants to mow a lawn by Landscaping Alpharetta professionals with low spots in it, right?

Not only is it uncomfortable (as when you drive your car over potholes), but it can also cause you to scalp the grass (because, as the mower drops down when the tires pass over low spots, the level of the mower blade also drops, plunging into the higher spots and cutting the grass there much too low).

So what is the solution to the problem of low spots? It really depends on the severity: are we talking about some minor depressions, extreme cratering, or something in between? The solution differs accordingly, which is why the response must be broken up into three parts, which we will term Methods 1, 2, and 3:

caseyscapes.com

Method 1 — Leveling Out a Mildly Uneven Lawn by Topdressing

Topdressing the low spots works well for leveling mildly uneven areas; it is the least invasive approach. Here is what to do:

  1. According to the Lawn Care Alpharetta, in a wheelbarrow or similar container, mix up a batch of topsoil, sand, and compost — basically, a soil medium that can support turfgrass growth.
  2. Apply 1/2 inch of this soil mixture on top of the low areas. Do not make it deeper than that, because this approach must be gradual, so that you do not smother the grass.
  3. Rake the topdressing to spread it out evenly.
  4. With a push-broom, work the soil mixture in between the blades of grass as thoroughly as possible.
  5. Monitor the progress in the area. Eventually, you should see just grass, no dirt (assuming there were no bare spots before you began the process of topdressing). If it is still uneven, keep repeating these steps until it is level. If the spot is level now, then you are done.

But if you had bare spots in the area before you started topdressing it, you will have to overseed the lawn in these areas.

Method 2 — Leveling Out a Moderately Uneven Lawn: “Sweeping the Dirt Under the Carpet”

The topdressing process described above takes time to work. What if you have a few really low spots in your lawn? Obviously, topdressing would not be very effective, because (since you have to proceed 1/2 inch at a time) you would be waiting forever. Yet, since, it is only a few low spots that we are talking about, there would be no need to take the kinds of drastic measures described in Method 3. Fortunately, there is an lawn care intermediate method. I call it “sweeping the dirt under the carpet,” because you are essentially picking up sod (the carpet) and putting dirt under it. This method works as follows:

  1. Remove the sod over the low spot (if the area is bigger than 1 foot square, cut out multiple chunks, since a piece of sod greater than 1 foot square is hard to move around without breaking) and set it aside.
  2. Shovel enough topsoil into the hole that, once you replace the sod, the area will be even.
  3. As you shovel the soil into the hole, add water. This will remove air pockets. The last thing you want is for the sod to settle after you have finished — which would defeat the whole purpose of the project.
  4. Replace the sod and water the grass.

Method 3 — How to Level Out a Lawn That Looks Like a Moonscape

Finally, Lawn Mowing Alpharetta come to the most extreme end of the spectrum. Is your lawn so littered with craters that it looks like the surface of the moon? If the uneven areas are substantial enough and numerous enough that neither topdressing nor the sweep-the-dirt-under-the-carpet method will solve the problem, then you may need to do a more major renovation by regrading the area and establishing a new stand of turfgrass. To accomplish this, you need to take the same steps that you would take to establish a new lawn, except that you are applying these steps to a smaller area.

Important Steps for a Healthy Lawn

Lawn care is not as simple as a four step program. One person’s lawn is not the same as the next. Soil conditions, weather, geographical location, orientation to the sun, budget, usage, previous history – there are plenty of factors that can alter a lawn care program and one lawn should never be treated exactly the same as the next. People love things to be easy though, so a four step program is an ideal marketing tool for lawn care made easy.

Of course, it is not that easy but in the spirit of other Lawn Care Dawsonville programs, here is a four-step lawn care program. (spoiler – it’s a little more involved than four steps!)

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1 . Watering – Providing adequate moisture is a key component to a healthy lawn but time and time again, over watering is more of a problem than not having enough water. Sprinkler systems should only be used to provide supplemental water, not as the main source of water for the lawn. A healthy lawn planted with the appropriate grass species and properly maintained will need far less water than commonly thought. In the Dawsonville, Landscaping Dawsonville often don’t water any turf until June and even then it is rare. The trick is to build the strongest, deepest root zone possible so grass can withstand periods of drought, only turning the water on when it is absolutely necessary.

2 . Fertilization – Timing is key when it comes to fertilizing the lawn.

The lawn should be allowed to “wake up” on it’s own a little before going out there first thing in the spring and fertilizing. Similarly, the grass should be allowed to harden off on its own in the winter. Improper timing in the fall could result in excessive top growth while the focus should be on root zone development.

As important as timing is ​the fertilizer type whether it’s an organic fertilizer derived from bone meal and fish emulsion or water-soluble synthetic fertilizer designed to release slowly over the course of several weeks. Fertilizers higher in nitrogen are used at the outset of the growing season to encourage top growth and fertilizer with less nitrogen and a little more potassium are best for the fall to build the root system of the lawn. A renewed root zone allows for a strong spring start up and the whole process is repeated.

3 . – Choosing the appropriate grass for your lawns is important to the entire lawn care program. The standard Kentucky bluegrass lawn has a nice color and is dense and lush but it requires more inputs than fescues especially newer cultivars bred for drought tolerance and disease resistance. A Kentucky bluegrass lawn requires more water, fertilizer, and mowing than other lawns, while new varieties of turf-type tall fescues are proving to be excellent low maintenance alternatives. Also be sure to plant the appropriate species for your geographic location, climate, and relative position to sun and shade.

4 . Pests and Weeds – Weeds and pests can be a problem but generally only when a lawn is stressed out and not maintained properly.

Weeds and pests are opportunists and will invade bare or thinning turf as lawns with poor soil conditions. Through a basic IPM program, use the presence of weeds and pests as a signal that there may be a deeper problem in the lawn. Have your soil tested to ensure proper pH and adequate nutrient levels. Improving the condition of the soil and many weed and pest problems will disappear.

Can a lawn program really be as easy as four steps? Of course not, within each of my steps there are many other factors and practices that go into growing a healthy lawn. That is why Lawn Mowing Dawsonville will suggest you to use the professional lawn care services. Start with the soil, have it tested, and be wary of quick and easy solutions that seem too good to be true.

SNOW REMOVAL TIPS FOR YOUR HOME

One of the most frustrating parts of winter is the need to shovel snow you can get it best by Dahlonega Water System Maintenance. You might just want to wait until springtime and just let it all melt. However, the effort must be given.

If you’re tired of wasting time and effort on removing snow every winter, it’s time to use these snow removal tips for your home to get the job done easier, more effectively, and better than ever before.

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Top Snow Removal Tips:

1. USE TALL STAKES AROUND DRIVEWAYS AND WALKWAYS

In Alpharetta, we’re pretty used to the snowfall. So, when Lawn Service Alpharetta suggest putting large stakes around your driveway and other walkways, you should use that advice. It’s helpful whether you hire a snowplow company, shovel yourself or use a snow blower. While you may think you’ll know exactly where your driveway is, it’s not as easy to locate with a couple of feet of snow.

2. USE A GOOD SHOVEL

Shoveling snow during the winter is annoying as it is. If you don’t have a quality shovel to work with, you’re just making it harder on yourself and your back. While it might be tempting to buy a cheap shovel when you’re making your decision, it’s wiser to not be a penny-pincher. Spend more money on a heavy plastic or aluminum blade shovel that will get the job done easier.

Also, be mindful that large shovels aren’t always the best. Large shovels can cause back pain and arm stiffness. If you’re looking to find a shovel for heavy snowfalls, you should buy a s-blade shovel. C-blade shovels are better for lighter snowfalls.

3. AVOID PLACING SNOW NEAR THE FOUNDATION

This is a mistake that a lot of homeowners simply don’t consider when they’re removing snow. Whether they’re removing snow from a roof, from a deck, or from the driveway, you should avoid piling snow next to the side of your house. This will only lead to issues such as frozen pipes and even potentially cause cracks in your home’s foundation. To avoid the serious damages you should contact to your local Landscaping Cumming GA.

4. BE SAFE

Shoveling snow can be a grueling activity, especially as you get older. If you don’t plan to hire a snow removal service, then it’s best that you follow these safety tips.

  • Bend your knees and lift with your legs.
  • Keep the blade close to you as you lift the snow.
  • Switch between shoveling left-handed and right-handed to avoid overstraining one side of the body.
  • Periodically switch your grip between overhand and underhand.
  • When the snowfall is heavy, don’t try to clear the entire depth at once; only do half at one time.

5. SHOVEL OFTEN

Whenever you’re removing snow, the reality is that it needs to be done frequently. The snow doesn’t seem to stop, but if you do you just make your job harder the next day. If you leave removing snow until the next day, the snow will start to stick to ground and might even freeze. This makes your job ten times harder. If you are busy in your routine work so call your local snow removing and lawn care professional.

6. INVEST IN A SNOW BLOWER

If you’re just done with shoveling snow in the winter, invest in a snow blower. Snow blowers can take away a lot of the tedious parts of removing snow in the winter, but you’ll still need a shovel for your deck. While it’s a faster method of removing snow, it’s also a more expensive option as snow blowers can cost up to $500.

7. SHOVEL FLAT ROOFS

If you have a flat roof that is easily accessible, you can shovel your roof, but according to the Alpharetta Lawn Care it’s important that you don’t damage your roof covering. Also, you should always consider your own personal safety before attempting to shovel your roof.

8. USE ROOF RAKES FOR SLOPED ROOFS

It may be possible to remove snow and ice from a sloped roof using a roof rake, which is a long-handled tool that is specifically designed for this reason.

9. CONSIDER THE IMPACT OF ICE MELT

There are a bunch of different options you can use to eliminate a slippery driveway and even a walkway such as salt (sodium chloride), calcium chloride, calcium magnesium acetate, and urea. Learning about the potential consequences of using each form of ice melt is important because these items can end up damaging plants, damaging flooring in your house, or harm your pets.

How to Prepare Your Lawn and Landscape for Winter

Before we get started, there is another excellent article in our archives on preparing your lawn and landscape for the chilly seasons. Lawn Mowing Cumming GA includes practical advice such as making sure the leaves are all raked up and the need for late fall lawn service and fertilization.

Pre-Winter Lawn Mowing

The most important tip is the need to mow your lawn short for the winter, especially in the northern areas of the country. If the grass is left too long, it will lay over on itself from the pressure of the snow cover. Air circulation around the plant is reduced, and Snow Mold, a destructive early spring lawn disease, can become a problem in your lawn. It can cause large areas of grass to die, or at least weaken in vigor.

Spring green-up and grass growing may also be slow. Often the grass blades will turn brown during the winter. This is a normal response to the cold weather of winter. The grass plant will need to grow an entirely new plant, from the crown up, the next spring. If there is a lot of brown grass left from the previous year, it will take a long time for the old plants to fall away and allow the new plants to show through Lawn Service Cumming.

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Other Winter Lawn Maintenance Tips

There are several other late fall, early winter jobs that need attention. If you have any perennial plants that have gone dormant, cut back the brown tops. If the tops are still green, wait until they turn yellow or brown before cutting. There is still energy being transferred to the root system from the top growth. Depending upon the amount of snow cover your area receives, you may have to wait until spring to complete this yard care task.

Lawn Furniture Tips

Outdoor furniture should be covered or brought indoors. Clay pots and other outdoor statuary should be brought indoors to keep from breaking. Alternating freezing and thawing of these items could cause them to crack. If they are too large to move, cover them with a plastic tarp.

Winter Mower Maintenance

Your Lawn Care Cumming needs attention at the end of the mowing season. Drain the gas tank or add a few drops of a stabilizing agent to the tank to keep the gas from getting ‘old’. It is also a good time to change the oil, clean the underside of the deck, sharpen the blade, and replace the spark plug and air cleaner. Be sure to disconnect the spark plug wire before attempting any repair on your mower, regardless of the time of year the maintenance or repair work is performed. Check out more tips to winterize your lawn, landscape and equipment.

Snow Clearing

If you are in an area that receives significant snow fall, many of your plants could be damaged from excess accumulation of snow on the branches. This is especially true of evergreen trees, such as Arbor Vitae. Carefully and gently, brush the snow in an upward direction off the limbs and boughs. If they become coated with ice, leave them alone. Trying to break off the ice could damage the tree or shrub, and won’t help much with your tree maintenance. The ice normally melts at a rapid pace, even if the temperatures are below freezing.

Finally, put out a bird feeder or two for our feathered friends. There are many birdseed mixes available, so choose one that will attract the varieties of birds that are most common for your area. Just remember the professional Landscapers in Cumming GA, I mean to say you local area.

Some Important Lawn Care Tips

Air your lawn to go with Thatch

Thatch is a layered lawn mower, moss and other organic materials that can be developed on your lawn. If your lawn is covered with a cape, you can not breathe or absorb water or fertilizer. An annual aeration of the lawn service cumming solve that problem by breaking it down and accelerating its dissolution. Soil plugs resulting from aeration contain microorganisms that digest the cane.

Air for water saving and protection against drought

If your lawn has a cane accumulated, water can not absorb it properly. Even if your soil is hard and compressed, water will swim in your lawn and will reduce the transfer of oxygen and nutrients to the soil. Aerating facilitates compaction on your lawn and improves the penetration of air, water and nutrients to a healthier soil.

Aerate for weeds and insect resistance

The central aeration is good for carrots. Curing the lawn through cumming lawn care ensures that water, air and nutrients reach their roots, improve growth and, therefore, prevent the herb from spreading. In addition, insects that want to thrive on their lawns, like worms, will fall off, while other insect infections (such as bedbugs) will be abandoned if it breaks their environment.

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Aerate for better growth of fertilizer and peat absorption

Airborne soil also increases the influence of fertilizer on the root system. If you light your lawn carefully, you can make the most of your fertilizer investment. In addition, aeration ensures that new lawn locations grow for a stronger lawn.

Air to Free Top Dressing

As you air the lawn, you leave thousands of cores of soil on the surface of your garden. Lawn Care Alpharetta provides a superior dressing that allows you to keep moisture in the grass and protect your grass until the next rain.

Air when your grass is in maximum growth

Depending on the type of grass on your lawn, you can escape during different seasons. Mainly you want to aerate if your grass is in high season. That means the late spring for the warm season grass, and preferably early autumn for the cold season grass.

Gently wind your lawn

You can use a lot of tools to hear your floor, from a simple fork to a mechanical aerator. But whatever you use, be sure to mark your lawn before you start aerating. Mark brand flags, mark all irrigation heads, cabinets, surface irrigation pipes or surface wiring, and all other components that can be damaged by aeration.

Air completely with multiple passages

When you are ready to go, listen to the lawn according to the same pattern as when you are cutting. For best results, perform several steps with the aerator to prevent inconsistent grass growth with separate grass patches. If your lawn is in good condition, it is sufficient. If your lawn has large bare areas, adjust three to four. The more plugs and holes you have in the lawn, the better.

Air with the right tools

With optional accessories, cultivation, tilting, sweeping, rooting, and, of course, Lawn Service Cumming GA can work as a workflow, making it a great tool for many garden and garden work. You can also rely on a hand-held speaker and do not necessarily need an aerator, depending on the size of your lawn. Other techniques for lawn aeration include nails, push aerators and lawn aeration shoes. The main difference between nails and plugs is that the previous individual holes will graze their bottom while the latter actually eliminates the grips.

After Lawn Aeration

After the aeration process, properly care for your garden, including fertilization, irrigation and cutting. Depending on the health of your lawn, you can fly every year or two. However, if your lawn is in good condition, you often do not have to go through the aeration process.